Skip to content
ARMORTHANE PROTECTING YOUR WORLD

PROTECTING YOUR WORLD

ARMORTHANE PROTECTING YOUR WORLD

Shipping Container
Insulation That
Stops Condensation

Why steel boxes sweat, which insulation actually stops it, how much room and money each option costs, and what code asks for, with four calculators from the people who make ArmorFoam spray foam.
Container Insulation Quotes

Want your container sprayed? Get a quote from a certified applicator.

Tell us the container size, how many, and what it will be used for. We'll connect you with an ArmorThane-certified spray foam applicator who will quote foam type, thickness and R-value in writing, walls to floor.

  • Container homes, offices, studios and workshops
  • Walls, ceiling and underside floors in one visit
  • Thickness, R-value and board feet on the quote
  • Contractors: ask about ArmorFoam and spray rigs
Rather talk now? Call (417) 831-5090
Step 1 of 3
R-0.85
A bare container wall
Air films only; the steel adds almost nothing
36.6°F
Inside face of bare steel
Chicago winter average; room dew point 44.6°F (our math)
0.83 perm
1 in. of ArmorFoam closed-cell
ASTM E96; a Class II vapor retarder
7′ 7¾″
Interior width to work with
Every inch on the walls costs two

A shipping container is a steel box built to keep cargo dry at sea, not to keep people comfortable on land. Put warm, humid air inside it in winter and the steel does what cold steel always does: it sweats. Insulating a container is mostly about stopping that water, and only then about R-value.

Quick answer

For a heated container, the best insulation is closed-cell spray foam bonded directly to the steel, usually 1.5–3 in. on the walls and more overhead, covered with ½ in. drywall. It fills the corrugations, stops air and vapor at the steel, and gives the most R-value per inch of lost width. Sealed foam panels are the best do-it-yourself alternative. Batts or open-cell foam alone against the steel are the options we'd rule out in cold climates. Check condensation for your city or estimate your container.

Most pages on this topic list five insulation types and stop there. What they leave out is what decides whether the walls stay dry: how cold the steel really gets, what happens to air that slips behind a board or batt, how much width each option eats, what code asks for, and whether a set of DIY kits actually beats a spray rig on a 40-footer.

We make ArmorFoam spray foam and polyurea coatings in Springfield, Missouri, and we've supported applicators for 35 years. So we'll show the math, give you four calculators, and tell you plainly where foam panels or a separate roof beat spraying the whole box.

What's in this guide
  1. 1Why shipping containers sweat
  2. 2Best insulation for a shipping container: methods compared
  3. 3How much insulation stops condensation (checker)
  4. 4Which insulation fits your container (selector)
  5. 5How much room insulation takes
  6. 6What it costs (estimator)
  7. 7Insulate inside or outside?
  8. 8How to insulate a shipping container, step by step
  9. 9Floors and roofs
  10. 10What code requires
  11. 11What it costs to heat (estimator)
  12. 12DIY or hire a pro
  13. 13Common mistakes
  14. 14ArmorFoam for containers
  15. 15Shipping container insulation FAQ
The problem

Why do shipping containers sweat?

Containers sweat because their walls and roof are thin steel that sits at nearly outdoor temperature. When indoor air touches steel colder than the air's dew point, water condenses on it. A bare container wall has almost no thermal resistance, about R-0.85 from the two air films, so in winter the inside face runs far below the dew point of room air.

What a container is made of

Standard containers are built from corrugated weathering steel (CorTen) on the sides and roof, with a plywood floor. The corrugation is structural: it "contributes significantly to the container's rigidity and stacking strength." That matters later, because the ribs are also where air hides behind poorly fitted insulation.

The numbers, on a Chicago winter night

Take 70°F room air at 40% relative humidity. Its dew point is 44.6°F. Outside, Chicago's three coldest months average 28.2°F (NOAA 1991–2020 normals). With only air films for insulation, the inside face of the steel settles near 36.6°F by our steady-state math. That's eight degrees below the dew point, so every wall sweats, and the roof drips first because clear night skies pull it colder still.

Spray 1 in. of closed-cell foam on that same wall and the first surface room air can touch sits at about 66°F. The steel behind the foam is still cold (about 29°F), but air can't get to it. That's the whole game: keep indoor air and vapor away from the cold steel.

Bare steelR-13 batt against steel2 in. closed-cell battfoamroom air 36.6°Fat the steelBelow dew point 28.7°Fat the steel, behind the battBelow dew point 67.9°Fat the foam faceDry
Inside is on the left. Dashed line = the first cold surface room air can reach. Chicago's three coldest months average 28.2°F (NOAA 1991–2020); room air 70°F at 40% RH has a 44.6°F dew point. The batt is warm on its face, but air and vapor pass through it to the steel. Steady-state, our calculation.

Where the water comes from

People, cooking, showers, plants and wet boots all put water in the air, and a container doesn't leak much of it back out; InSoFast's container FAQ makes the same point and calls for "a proper mechanical ventilation system." Fuel-burning heaters are the sneaky one. By our combustion math, an unvented propane heater releases about 0.82 gallon of water vapor for every gallon of propane it burns. Run one all day in a 20-footer and you're humidifying it.

Why insulation can make it worse

Here's the part most guides skip. The steel skin is itself a perfect vapor barrier, on the outside. So any water that reaches the back of your insulation can't dry outward. A fiberglass batt pushed against the ribs is warm on the room side but lets air and vapor straight through to steel that's below freezing. You don't stop the condensation; you just move it where you can't see it, into the batt and against the steel. The same goes for foam boards with open seams, where room air loops through the corrugation valleys behind them. It's the same physics that makes steel shops drip; our metal building insulation guide covers the purlin-and-girt version.

Storage containers sweat tooAn unheated box drips for a different reason: on clear nights the roof radiates heat to the sky and drops below the temperature of the air inside, and humid daytime air comes in every time the doors open. Insulating the ceiling moves the cold surface out of reach of the air inside. Vents, keeping goods off the steel and not storing wet gear do the rest.
Pick a method

What is the best insulation for a shipping container?

For a heated container, closed-cell spray foam bonded to the steel is the best single answer: it's the air barrier, a Class II vapor retarder and R-6.5 per inch in one layer, with nothing for room air to get behind. Sealed foam panels come second and are the easiest do-it-yourself route. Framed walls with batts are cheapest per R and riskiest on steel.

MethodR-value as usedStops air and vapor at the steel?Width lost (both walls)DIYInstalled cost basisMain risk
Closed-cell spray foam, pro rigR-6.5/in. aged (ArmorFoam); 2 in. = R-13Yes, fully adhered; 0.83 perm at 1 in.5 in. at 2 in. + drywallNo$1.00–$2.12 per board foot, $1,000–$2,000 minimum (2026)Cost; thermal barrier still needed
Closed-cell two-part kitsR-6.2/in. (Froth-Pak, ESR-3228)Yes, if thickness is even5 in. at 2 in. + drywallModerate$1.22–$1.95 per bf, material onlyPast ~500 sq ft, kit cost nears a pro’s price
Foam panels (e.g., InSoFast, EPS)R-11 continuous at a 2 in. profile (maker's figure)Yes, if every seam is sealed5 in. + drywallEasyCX44 bundle $1,660–$4,761 by size (2026)Open seams; lower R per inch
Rigid board (XPS, EPS, polyiso) over furringR-5.0 / 4.0 / 5.6 per in.Only with sealed seams and edges5.5 in. at 1.5 in. boardEasy$1.20–$3.70/sq ft installed (HomeGuide, 2025)Air loops in the corrugation valleys
Open-cell spray foamR-3.9/in. (ArmorFoam 0.5)No: over 10 perm8 in. at 3.5 in. + drywallNo$0.44–$0.73 per bf (2026)Vapor reaches cold steel
2x4 framing + fiberglass or mineral woolR-13 at 3½ in. (nominal)Only with a perfect interior vapor seal8 in.Easy$0.80–$2.60/sq ft batts (HomeGuide, 2025), framing extraHidden condensation on the steel
Hybrid: closed-cell, then a batt wallFoam R + batt R (e.g., 2 in. + R-13 = R-26)Yes (the foam layer)12 in.ModerateFoam plus framing and battsFoam too thin for the batt
Exterior insulation (foam + cladding or coating)Whatever goes outsideSteel stays warm≈1 in. (interior finish only)RarelyProject-specificCost, detailing, UV protection
R-values: ArmorThane test data, ICC-ES ESR-3228, the Colorado Energy R-value table and InSoFast (panels). Width lost assumes ½ in. drywall; boards include ¾ in. furring. Cost figures: our spray foam insulation cost guide (2026 median bands), our closed-cell kit table, HomeGuide (Nov. 2025) and InSoFast list prices. Click a header to sort.

Closed-cell spray foam

Closed-cell is the only option that insulates, air seals and controls vapor in one pass while filling every corrugation. ArmorFoam closed-cell tests at R-6.5 per inch aged, passes as an air barrier at 1 in. (ASTM E2178), absorbs under 2% water by volume and measures 0.83 perm at 1 in., dropping to about 0.10 at 8 in. It also bonds to thin sheet metal and stiffens it, which is why our closed-cell spray foam guide lists vans, trailers and containers among its best fits. The downsides: price, a thermal barrier in living space, and chemistry that needs a trained crew or real respect from a DIYer.

Foam panels made for containers

Panel systems like InSoFast glue 2 in. EPS panels to the ribs, with built-in channels for studs and wiring. InSoFast rates its CX44 bundle at "R-11 continuous insulation" and lists it from $1,660 to $4,761 by container size. No spray equipment, no fumes, and you can do a wall a day. The catch is the seams. InSoFast's own instructions call for a continuous bead along the bottom of the wall and sealing horizontal rows every 2 ft "to prevent air movement behind the panels." Do that and panels work. Skip it and you have boards with a cold air gap behind them.

Rigid foam boards over furring

XPS, EPS or foil-faced polyiso cut to fit between furring strips is the budget foam route. One container dealer quotes rigid polystyrene at R-5 per inch in 1–3 in. thicknesses. Flat boards meet corrugated steel only at the ridges, so the valleys behind them are air pockets at nearly outdoor temperature. Glue the boards, foam every edge, and tape the seams, or the wall will collect water behind the board.

Framed walls with fiberglass or mineral wool

A 2x4 wall with R-13 batts is familiar and cheap per R. It's also vapor-open, and the steel behind it is the first cold surface. It only works if the interior finish and vapor retarder are truly airtight, and even then it has no second chance. We'd consider it in climate zones 1–3; north of that, put closed-cell against the steel first and the batt wall inside it. That hybrid gets you high R-values at a lower cost, as long as the foam is thick enough (the checker below sizes it).

Open-cell spray foam

Open-cell is great in wood-framed walls and for sound. On container steel it's the wrong tool. ArmorThane's own data puts it at over 10 perm and up to 30% water absorption by volume, so indoor vapor passes through it to the coldest surface in the wall. If you want sound control inside a container office, put open-cell or mineral wool in interior partitions, not against the shell.

Things that aren't insulationRadiant barriers and bubble foil only work facing an air space, and DOE says they don't reduce conduction like insulation does; their payoff is 5–10% cooling savings in hot, sunny climates. Insulating paints are sold for containers too. We haven't seen ASTM C518 R-values that let them replace insulation, so ask for them before you buy. Carpet and plywood on the walls add almost nothing.
Interactive tool 1 of 4

How much insulation stops container condensation?

Less than you'd think, if it's the right kind. Keeping a foam face above the dew point takes only a fraction of an inch of closed-cell in most U.S. climates. The thickness you actually need comes from R-value targets and comfort. The real risk is vapor-open or leaky insulation that lets room air reach the steel. Pick your city and insulation to see which surface condenses.

Condensation check

Will my container walls sweat?

Winter temperatures are NOAA 1991–2020 normals; climate zones are from the 2018 IRC county table, so verify your county. Works for walls and ceilings.

Used when city = custom
EPA’s target for homes is 30–50%
Ignored for spray foam
44.6°F
Indoor dew point
67.9°F
Foam face (first cold surface)
+23.4°F
Margin over dew point
1 in.
Closed-cell needed (1 in. min.)

Stays dry The first cold surface room air can reach is the foam face, at 67.9°F: 23.4°F above the dew point. The steel behind it sits at 28.7°F, but air can’t get there. Over the three coldest months, about 8.0 g of water vapor per sq ft could diffuse to the steel (steady-state estimate using 0.83 perm at 1 in. scaled to 2 in. (ArmorFoam)). A 10-perm layer in the same spot would pass about 192 g, roughly 24 times more. Thicker foam or drier indoor air lowers it further. Steady-state screening, not a hygrothermal model. Want closed-cell sprayed to spec? Find an ArmorThane applicator.

How we calculated this: dew point by the Magnus formula (Alduchov-Eskridge coefficients); air films of 0.68 inside and 0.17 outside; steel counted as zero resistance; surface temperatures from the R-value ratio on each side. The winter vapor estimate multiplies the layer's permeance by the vapor-pressure difference to the steel over 90 days (30 for the coldest month). Closed-cell permeance scales ArmorFoam's 0.83 perm at 1 in. by thickness. Steady-state screening only; it ignores moisture storage and summer drying.

What the checker shows, in plain English

  • Surface condensation is easy to beat. In Chicago, keeping a foam face above a 44.6°F dew point needs only about R-0.3 of added insulation. Even 1 in. of closed-cell clears it by more than 20°F.
  • Vapor getting to the steel is the real issue. Over a Chicago winter, about 8 g of water per sq ft could diffuse through 2 in. of closed-cell to the steel, by our estimate. A 10-perm layer, which is a best case for open-cell or batts, lets through about 190 g per sq ft, some 24 times more.
  • Batts inside foam need enough foam. Add an R-13 batt wall inside the foam and the foam face gets colder. In Chicago it needs about 1.5 in. of closed-cell under R-13 to stay dry.
  • Summer reverses the drive. In hot weather the steel heats up and vapor moves inward. Closed-cell handles both directions, and so the wall can dry toward the room. Don't add poly sheeting over the foam.
Interactive tool 2 of 4

Which insulation fits your shipping container?

The right answer depends on what the box is for, how cold it gets, and who's doing the work. A storage container may need only an inch of foam overhead. A home in Minnesota needs 3 in. or more on the walls and a real plan for the roof. Answer six questions for a ranked short list, with thicknesses tied to the energy code for your zone.

Method selector

Get a ranked insulation plan for your container

Climate zones: most of the South is 2–3, the middle of the country 4–5, the northern tier 6–7. Springfield, Missouri is 4A.

Closed-cell spray foam against the steelOur pick
1. Our pick

Closed-cell spray foam against the steel

  • 3.25 in. on the walls reaches R-21.1, which meets the 0+20ci wall option for zone 4 (our reading of the IECC; confirm with your building official).
  • Air barrier, Class II vapor retarder and insulation in one pass, fully bonded to the corrugations. Nothing for room air to get behind.
  • Cover it with ½ in. drywall or another approved thermal barrier in occupied space.
2. Cold-climate value

Closed-cell first, then a framed batt wall

  • 1.5–2 in. of closed-cell against the steel, then a 2x3 or 2x4 wall with batts inside it for the extra R.
  • The foam has to be thick enough that its face stays above the dew point under the batt. The condensation check sizes it for your city.
  • Costs more interior width than foam alone.
3. DIY alternative

Continuous foam panels, seams sealed

  • 2 in. EPS panels (InSoFast lists R-11 continuous) glued to the ribs, with every horizontal row foam-sealed.
  • R-11 is short of the zone 4 wall yardstick (R-20 ci), so plan a second layer or a framed layer inside.
  • No chemicals to spray, built-in wiring channels; drywall still goes over it.
Targets and notes
  • Walls: R-20 continuous in zone 4 (2021 IECC ci option) ≈ 3.1 in. of closed-cell.
  • Ceiling: R-60 ≈ 9.2 in. of closed-cell. The R-30 “ceiling without attic” allowance is capped at 500 sq ft or 20% of the ceiling, so it rarely covers a whole container roof.
  • Floor: R-19 ≈ 2.9 in. of closed-cell under the container.
  • Ventilation: 0.01 cfm per sq ft plus 7.5 cfm per bedroom plus one (2024 IRC Eq. 15-1). A 40-ft, one-bedroom unit needs about 18 cfm.
  • Never add poly sheeting over closed-cell. The steel already blocks vapor on the outside; the wall needs to dry inward.
  • We don’t recommend batts or open-cell alone against container steel in zone 4. They’re vapor-open, and the steel is the first cold surface.

Rule-based guidance from the sources on this page. Your building official and product literature govern.

Inches matter

How much room does container insulation take?

Every inch of wall insulation costs two inches of width, because it goes on both side walls. A standard container is 7′ 7¾″ wide inside. Two inches of closed-cell plus drywall leaves about 7′ 2¾″; a 2x4 batt wall leaves under 7 ft. That's why R-value per inch matters more in a container than in almost any other building.

Wall build (each side)Depth per sideWall R-valueWidth left (from 91¾ in.)
Exterior insulation, interior finish only≈½ in.Depends on exterior layer7′ 6¾″
1 in. closed-cell + ½ in. drywall1½ in.R-6.57′ 4¾″
2 in. closed-cell + drywall2½ in.R-137′ 2¾″
2 in. foam panels (R-11) + drywall2½ in.R-117′ 2¾″
1½ in. XPS + ¾ in. furring + drywall2¾ in.R-7.57′ 2¼″
3 in. closed-cell + drywall3½ in.R-19.57′ 0¾″
2x4 wall + R-13 batt + drywall4 in.R-13 (nominal)6′ 11¾″
2 in. closed-cell + 2x4 wall with R-13 + drywall6 in.R-26 (nominal)6′ 7¾″
Our calculation from Wikipedia's interior dimensions for standard and high-cube containers (7′ 7¾″ wide). Spray foam depth is measured from the rib tops; foam in the corrugation valleys doesn't cost width. Container sellers quote slightly different interior sizes, so measure yours.

Headroom: why high cubes are popular

A standard container is 7′ 8½″ tall inside; a high cube is 8′ 8½″. Take 2½ in. off the ceiling for 2 in. of foam and drywall, and 2¾ in. off the floor for 2 in. of rigid foam and a subfloor, and a standard box drops to about 7′ 3¼″ while a high cube keeps about 8′ 3¼″. Insulate the floor from underneath and the roof from outside, and you lose almost nothing. Check the minimum ceiling height your code sets for habitable rooms before you commit to a standard-height box.

Interactive tool 3 of 4

How much does shipping container insulation cost?

For the walls, ends and ceiling of a 20-ft container, expect roughly $1,100–$2,400 for 2 in. of professionally sprayed closed-cell on flat-area math, before the extra foam the corrugations take and before drywall. A 40-ft high cube runs about double. Foam boards and batts cost less upfront. HomeGuide puts container-home insulation at $0.80–$4.50 per sq ft by type (Jan. 2026).

Insulation estimator

Area, materials, R-value, space left and cost for your container

Spray foam fills the corrugations, so measure the depth of your wall ribs; the 1.5 in. default is only a placeholder. Estimates only.

Panels and batt walls use their own depth
Placeholder: measure yours
Surfaces to insulate
522 sq ft
Net area
1,435 bf
Board feet in place
R-13.0
Wall and ceiling R-value
7′ 2¾″
Width left
$1,435–$3,042
Estimated cost range

1 x 20-ft standard (19.3 x 7.65 x 7.71 ft inside). Surfaces: 562 sq ft, less 40 sq ft of openings. Spray foam fills the corrugations, so we add half your corrugation depth (0.75 in.) as average extra foam on every corrugated surface. Width left between finished walls: 7′ 2¾″ (from 7′ 7¾″); height left: 7′ 6″.

Cost basis

$1,435–$3,042

  • Installed closed-cell at the 2026 median band of $1.00–$2.12 per board foot, with a $1,000–$2,000 minimum job charge (our spray foam cost guide).
  • Cross-check: HomeGuide puts container-home insulation at $0.80–$4.50 per sq ft (Jan. 2026), or $417–$2,348 for this area.
  • Not included: the ½ in. drywall or other thermal barrier foam needs in living space, framing, and finishes.
Checks
  • Moisture: fully adhered closed-cell is the air barrier and a Class II vapor retarder at 1 in. or more (0.83 perm at 1 in., ArmorFoam). Nothing to condense on.
  • Space: each inch on the side walls costs two inches of width.
  • Ceiling: R-13.0 overhead. Energy code asks R-30 to R-60 for ceilings; see the code section for the roof strategy.

How we calculated this: areas from Wikipedia's interior dimensions (side walls 2 x L x H, ends 2 x W x H, ceiling L x W), minus openings. Spray foam board feet = area x (thickness + half the corrugation depth); kits add 25% waste. Professional prices are installed prices, so no waste is added. Price bands are dated and cited in the result; your quote will differ.

Published and calculated costs, side by side

Option20-ft standard (≈562 sq ft)40-ft high cube (≈1,120 sq ft)Basis
Closed-cell, pro, 2 in.$1,124–$2,383$2,240–$4,748$1.00–$2.12/bf installed (2026), flat area
Same, with 1.5 in. corrugations$1,545–$3,275$3,079–$6,528Adds 0.75 in. average fill
Closed-cell kits, 2 in. (DIY)≈$1,855 (two 605s + one 202)≈$3,695 (five 605s)2026 kit prices, 25% waste, flat area
Open-cell, pro, 3.5 in.$865–$1,435, so the $1,000–$2,000 minimum applies$1,724–$2,861$0.44–$0.73/bf installed (2026)
Foam board, installed$674–$2,079$1,344–$4,143$1.20–$3.70/sq ft (HomeGuide, Nov. 2025)
Batts, installed (framing extra)$449–$1,461$896–$2,911$0.80–$2.60/sq ft (HomeGuide, Nov. 2025)
InSoFast CX44 panels (material)$1,660–$4,761 depending on container sizeInSoFast list price, 2026
All types, container homes$449–$2,528$896–$5,039$0.80–$4.50/sq ft (HomeGuide, Jan. 2026)
Walls, end walls and ceiling from Wikipedia's interior dimensions; floors, drywall and framing not included. Our calculation except where a source is named. For how contractors price foam, see our spray foam insulation cost guide.

Two things stand out. First, a 20-footer is a small spray job, close to the $1,000–$2,000 minimum most crews charge, so bundling the floor, a second container or an exterior roof coating into the same visit lowers the price per foot. Second, kits stop saving money quickly. Our closed-cell guide puts the break point around 500 sq ft, and a 20-ft container's walls and ceiling are already about 560 before the corrugations.

Budget separately for the thermal barrier (usually drywall), framing or furring to hang it on, and the container itself: HomeGuide lists one-trip containers delivered at $2,000–$4,000 for a 20-ft and $2,700–$8,000 for a 40-ft (Jan. 2026).

Placement

Should you insulate a container inside or outside?

Inside is cheaper and keeps the container look, which is why most builds do it. Outside is better physics: the steel stays warm, so there's no cold surface for indoor air to find, and you keep every inch of interior width. The roof is where exterior insulation pays off most, because the ceiling is the hardest place to fit enough R-value inside.

Inside: the default

  • Cheapest and simplest, and the steel stays visible outside.
  • Costs width and headroom; see the table above.
  • Needs a thermal barrier over foam in living space, plus framing or furring to hang it on.
  • Put closed-cell against the steel so the cold steel stays out of reach.

Outside: the better wall, at a price

  • Steel stays warm and dry inside; condensation risk inside nearly disappears.
  • Exterior foam needs protection: cladding on walls, a UV-stable coating on a roof.
  • Door, window and corner-casting details take real work, and the box no longer looks like a container.

The roof: foam and a coating on top

Spraying closed-cell roofing foam over the roof steel and coating it keeps the ceiling height, warms the roof steel, and puts a waterproof, reflective skin on the part of the container that takes the most sun. Our ArmorFoam Roof 200 is a 2.5–3.0 pcf closed-cell roofing foam that goes over primed substrates including metal and carries UL 790 ratings as a Class A or Class B coated roof system. DOE notes a conventional roof can pass 150°F on a sunny afternoon, while a reflective one can stay more than 50°F cooler. A separate framed roof over the containers is the other good answer, and it gives you an attic to insulate.

Applicator in a protective suit spray-applying a coating to a corrugated metal panel from a lift
Coatings and roofing foam go on from outside, over clean, primed steel.

Rust: what insulation does and doesn't do

Weathering steel forms a protective oxide, but it isn't a coating. The FHWA's guidance for weathering-steel bridges advises against leaving it uncoated where it stays wet much of the year. Interior closed-cell keeps condensation off the inside of the steel; it does nothing for the outside. If the exterior is rusting, blast and prime it, then coat it. Our metal coating guide covers the prep: an SSPC-SP 10 near-white blast, a 2.5–4.0 mil profile and an ArmorThane-specified primer before polyurea.

Step by step

How to insulate a shipping container, step by step

Cut openings and plan the utilities first, deal with the floor and any rust, then install the insulation against clean, dry steel, sealing as you go. Finish with a thermal barrier and a ventilation plan. The order matters: foam is hard to cut back once it's on, and the steel has to be clean and dry for foam or glue to hold.

  1. Plan openings, framing and utilities

    Cut and frame windows and doors, and decide where wiring, plumbing and vents run, before any insulation goes on. Panels have built-in wiring channels; with spray foam, set boxes and conduit first. Under IBC Section 3114, openings cut in walls that resist lateral loads have to be backed by structural analysis.

  2. Check the floor

    Used container floors can carry "fumigation residues," so seal or replace the plywood before living on it. The IBC also requires container wood floors to be protected from decay and termites (3114.4).

  3. Clean the steel and fix rust

    Scrape loose scale, wash off salt and grime, and let it dry. Foam and adhesives stick to clean, dry steel. Ask your foam maker if the steel needs a primer.

  4. Set furring or studs

    With spray foam, many builders set thin studs or furring off the ribs first, so the drywall has something to screw into and the foam fills around them.

  5. Mask, warm and ventilate

    Cover windows and anything that can't take overspray. Kits need warm chemicals; DuPont wants Froth-Pak at 70–120°F with the air and steel at 65°F or more. Ventilate hard.

  6. Install the insulation

    Spray foam: fill the corrugations first, then build thickness in lifts of about 1.5–2 in. per pass, checking depth as you go. Panels or boards: glue to the ribs, run the bottom bead, and foam-seal every row and edge.

  7. Cover it

    In living space, foam gets a thermal barrier, usually ½ in. drywall (IBC 2603.4; IRC R316.4, R303.4 in 2024). Don't add poly sheeting over closed-cell.

  8. Ventilate and dehumidify

    Plan fresh air to code (below) and hold indoor humidity where EPA suggests for homes, 30–50%. A ductless mini-split handles heat, cooling and some drying in one box.

The hard parts

Shipping container floor and roof insulation

Insulate the floor from underneath if you can reach it, because it costs no headroom; otherwise lay rigid foam and a subfloor on top. The roof is the toughest surface: code asks for R-30 to R-60 at ceilings, which is 4½ to 9 in. of closed-cell inside a box that's only 7′ 8½″ tall. Exterior roof foam or a separate roof solves that.

Floor option 1

Spray the underside

Closed-cell sprayed between the crossmembers before the container is set, then protected. No headroom lost and it air-seals the floor. The IBC wants the space under a container ventilated (3114.5), so don't close it in airtight at grade.

Floor option 2

Foam and subfloor on top

Rigid foam over the existing floor (after sealing it) and a new subfloor. About 2¾ in. of headroom for 2 in. of foam. Simple, and it covers any residue in the old plywood.

Roof option 1

Foam on the ceiling

The usual route. Plan on 3 in. or more of closed-cell overhead in cold zones, and watch the headroom in a standard-height box.

Roof option 2

Foam and coating outside, or a new roof

Exterior roofing foam plus a coating, or a framed roof over the containers. Either keeps the ceiling height and takes the sun load off the steel.

Where the roof won't hold enough insulation, the energy code has a narrow relief valve: a ceiling without an attic can drop to R-30, but only for 500 sq ft or 20% of the total insulated ceiling area, whichever is less. On a container home the whole ceiling has no attic, so that allowance rarely covers it. Plan the roof R-value early, not after the walls are done.

Code

What does code require for shipping container insulation?

Containers used as buildings now have their own IBC section (3115 in the 2021 IBC, 3114 in the 2024 edition), and the IRC says containers repurposed as buildings must be designed to the structural provisions written for them (R301.1.4). Neither has a container-specific insulation table, so the energy code's regular envelope values apply, foam needs a thermal barrier in occupied space, and a home needs mechanical ventilation.

What the container sections cover

The IBC defines an intermodal shipping container as "a six-sided steel unit originally constructed as a general cargo container used for the transport of goods and materials." Section 3114 covers the data plate (verified by an approved agency), structural design for cut and stacked units, floor decay and termite protection, under-floor ventilation and roof assemblies. It's structural and fire-safety content; insulation falls to the energy code.

Energy code targets by climate zone

There's no container row in the IECC. The closest yardstick is the wood-frame wall line, which lets you meet the wall target with continuous insulation alone ("0+10ci" and similar). Foam across the whole wall with nothing but fasteners through it fits the code's definition of continuous insulation. Treat this as our reading and confirm the compliance path (prescriptive, U-factor or REScheck) with your building official.

Climate zoneWall, continuous-insulation optionClosed-cell to hit itCeilingClosed-cell to hit itFloor
1R-10 ci1.5 in.R-304.6 in.R-13
2R-10 ci1.5 in.R-497.5 in.R-13
3R-15 (0+15)2.3 in.R-497.5 in.R-19
4 (and Marine 4)R-20 ci3.1 in.R-609.2 in.R-19 (Marine 4: R-30)
5–6R-20 ci3.1 in.R-609.2 in.R-30
7–8R-20 ci3.1 in.R-609.2 in.R-38 (IRC: R-30)
2021 IECC residential values via DOE/PNNL's Building America Solution Center. Thicknesses are our calculation at R-6.5 per inch. Many jurisdictions still use older editions with lower values; check what yours adopted.

Fire: foam needs a thermal barrier

Foam plastic in occupied space must be separated from the interior by an approved thermal barrier: ½ in. gypsum wallboard or a material that passes NFPA 275 (IBC 2603.4; IRC R316.4, renumbered R303.4 in 2024). That applies to spray foam, foam boards and foam panels alike. A Class A flame-spread rating on its own isn't a substitute, and some foams list intumescent coatings in their evaluation reports as an alternative. Our closed-cell guide has a fire-code checker for the residential rules.

Vapor control

Vapor retarders come in classes by perm rating: Class I at 0.1 perm or less, Class II above 0.1 up to 1.0, Class III above 1.0 up to 10 (ASTM E96, desiccant method). One inch of ArmorFoam closed-cell measures 0.83 perm, so it's Class II, and thicker foam is tighter. Open-cell, at over 10 perm, isn't a vapor retarder at all.

Ventilation

A tight container home needs whole-house mechanical ventilation. The 2024 IRC's formula is 0.01 cfm per sq ft of floor plus 7.5 cfm times (bedrooms + 1). For a one-bedroom 40-footer (about 301 sq ft) that's roughly 18 cfm, continuous. It's also your first defense against the humidity that causes condensation.

Interactive tool 4 of 4

What does it cost to heat an insulated shipping container?

Very little, once it's insulated. By our math, a one-bedroom 40-ft high cube in Chicago with 2 in. of closed-cell on the walls, 3 in. overhead and 2 in. under the floor costs about $360 a year to heat with a heat pump. Bare steel would cost over $4,000. The estimator runs your city, container and heat source.

Heating estimator

Annual heating cost and heat loss for your container

Heating degree days are NOAA 1991–2020 normals; prices are 2025 EIA U.S. residential averages. Change them to match your bills.

0.30 = IECC zone 5+ value
$362
Heating cost per year
$4,149
Same box, bare steel
17.8
MMBtu of heat per year
5.3k
Btu/h at the coldest-month average
Walls: Bare steel
$2,831/yr
Walls: 1 in. closed-cell
$505/yr
Walls: 2 in. closed-cell
$362/yr
Walls: 3 in. closed-cell
$310/yr

Heat loss coefficient 124 Btu/h·°F for 1 x 40-ft high cube (769 sq ft of walls, 301 sq ft each of ceiling and floor, 50 sq ft of windows and doors), with 18 cfm of ventilation air (2024 IRC Eq. 15-1). 5,974 heating degree days. Peak figure is the heat loss at the coldest-month average of 25.2°F with 68°F inside; size real equipment with a Manual J at your design temperature. Bars change the wall insulation only. Air leakage beyond the ventilation rate isn’t counted.

How we calculated this: U = 1 ÷ (0.85 + insulation R) for walls and ceiling; the floor adds about R-1.4 for 1⅛ in. of plywood (R-1.25 per inch per the Colorado Energy table; the thickness is our assumption); windows at your U-factor; ventilation at 1.08 x cfm. Annual heat = total UA x 24 x HDD65. Electricity is EIA's 2025 residential average of 17.30¢/kWh; gas at $1.48/therm is derived from EIA's 2025 average of $15.34 per Mcf at about 1,036 Btu per cubic foot. The heat pump COP of 2.5 is an assumption.

CityHDD65Bare steel2 in. walls, 3 in. ceiling, 2 in. floor3 in. walls, 5 in. ceiling, 3 in. floor
Atlanta2,531$1,758/yr$153/yr$117/yr
Springfield, MO4,277$2,970/yr$259/yr$198/yr
Chicago5,974$4,149/yr$362/yr$277/yr
Minneapolis–St. Paul7,399$5,139/yr$448/yr$342/yr
Our calculation: one 40-ft high cube, one bedroom (18 cfm ventilation), 50 sq ft of windows and doors at U-0.30, heat pump at COP 2.5 and 17.3¢/kWh. Heating only.

The first inches do most of the work. In the Chicago example, with the ceiling and floor insulated, the walls alone take the bill from $2,831 bare to $505 with 1 in. of closed-cell, $362 with 2 in. and $310 with 3 in. So why go thicker? Comfort (warmer wall surfaces), code, and the fact that a smaller heat load means a smaller, cheaper mini-split. In hot climates, the roof matters more than the walls: DOE's numbers for roof surface temperatures are the reason to put your best insulation, or a reflective coating, overhead.

Do it yourself?

DIY container insulation or hire a pro?

For one container, DIY foam panels are the easiest safe route, and two-part kits make sense for patches, doors and small boxes. Once you're spraying the walls and ceiling of a whole container at 2 in., a contractor's rig usually costs about the same as the kits, with better yield and no respirator on your face. Get a quote before you buy six kits.

Kits: the math for a 20-footer

Walls, ends and ceiling of a 20-ft container are about 560 sq ft. At 2 in., plus 25% kit waste, that's roughly 1,400 board feet on flat-area math and nearer 1,900 once the corrugations fill. At 2026 kit prices that's about $1,855–$2,600 in kits, against $1,124–$3,275 for a pro on the same assumptions. Kits are rated R-6.2 per inch and one major kit's evaluation report caps spraying at 2 in. per pass. Our DIY spray foam insulation guide walks through kit sizes, temperatures and technique; for vans and trailers, see van insulation.

Safety inside a steel boxUncured spray foam contains isocyanates, which OSHA links to skin and mucous-membrane irritation, chest tightness, difficult breathing and occupational asthma. A container is a small, enclosed space. Follow the kit's PPE to the letter (Froth-Pak's evaluation report calls for an organic-vapor respirator with a P100 filter), move at least 10 air changes an hour during spraying and for an hour after, and keep everyone else out until the maker's re-entry time has passed.

When to call a pro

  • Whole containers or several of them. The minimum charge stops mattering and the price per board foot drops.
  • Floors from underneath. Overhead spraying under a container is hard, messy work.
  • Cold climates. You'll want 3 in. or more, in controlled lifts, with thickness checked.
  • Inspected homes. You'll need product data, thickness and barrier details in writing.
Avoid these

Common shipping container insulation mistakes

  • Batts or open-cell against the steel in a cold climate. The water ends up on the steel, out of sight.
  • Foam boards with open seams. Room air circulates in the corrugation valleys and condenses there.
  • Poly sheeting over closed-cell. The steel already blocks vapor outside; don't trap the wall from inside too.
  • Forgetting the ceiling. It's the coldest surface on clear nights and the hottest in summer sun.
  • Unvented propane heaters. Close to a gallon of water vapor for every gallon burned.
  • No fresh-air plan. A tight steel box needs mechanical ventilation.
  • Spraying over rust scale, salt or dirt. Foam and adhesives need clean, dry steel.
  • Leaving foam exposed in living space without a thermal barrier.
  • Insulating before cutting openings and running wiring.
  • Losing the headroom in a standard-height box. Price a high cube first.
ArmorThane applicators

Closed-cell spray foam for shipping containers, sprayed to spec

If the selector says spray foam, an ArmorThane-certified applicator can spray ArmorFoam closed-cell to a stated thickness and R-value, fill the corrugations, and do the floor and a second container in the same visit. Our closed-cell tests at R-6.5 per inch aged, passes as an air barrier at 1 in., and measures 0.83 perm there.

Honestly, if you're doing one box yourself on a budget, sealed foam panels are a reasonable choice, and we'd rather you pick them than batts against steel. Where we're hard to beat is the whole package: foam inside, roofing foam and polyurea outside, from one rig. More in our spray foam insulation overview, the spray foam R-value guide and the ArmorFoam closed-cell system page. Turning a container into a pool is a different job: shipping container pool.

Get a container insulation quote →Closed-cell spray foam
Technician in a hooded protective suit and respirator spraying closed-cell foam insulation
Closed-cell goes on in lifts of about 1.5–2 in. per pass.
R-6.5 / in.

ArmorFoam closed-cell

Aged, ASTM C518. Two inches is R-13; three is R-19.5.

0.83 perm

At 1 in.

ASTM E96, a Class II vapor retarder; about 0.10 perm at 8 in.

<2%

Water absorption

By volume. It won't hold water against the steel.

For contractors

Container builds are steady foam work.

A 20-ft container is roughly 1,100–1,500 board feet at 2 in.; a 40-ft high cube, about double. A 55-gallon ArmorFoam set yields about 5,000. Add underside floors, exterior roof foam and polyurea coatings, and one rig covers the whole build. We supply ArmorFoam, matched spray equipment and training at your location. No franchise fee, no royalties.

Become an applicatorStart a spray foam business

See the rigs: mobile spray foam rigs →

Straight answers

Shipping container insulation FAQ

What is the best insulation for a shipping container?

For a heated container, closed-cell spray foam bonded directly to the steel. It fills the corrugations, acts as the air barrier and a Class II vapor retarder (ArmorFoam measures 0.83 perm at 1 in.), and gives R-6.5 per inch. Sealed foam panels are the best do-it-yourself alternative. Batts or open-cell foam alone against the steel aren't recommended in cold climates, because vapor passes through them to steel near outdoor temperature.

How thick should shipping container insulation be?

Most heated containers get 1.5–3 in. of closed-cell on the walls. The 2021 IECC's continuous-insulation wall options are R-10 in zones 1–2, R-15 in zone 3 and R-20 in zones 4–8, which is about 1.5, 2.3 and 3.1 in. of closed-cell at R-6.5 per inch (our math). Ceilings are asked for R-30 to R-60, which is hard to fit inside; exterior roof foam or a separate roof helps. For unheated storage, 1 in. on the ceiling often stops the drip.

Is spray foam good for shipping containers?

Closed-cell is. It bonds to the steel, fills every rib, stiffens thin sheet metal and absorbs under 2% water by volume. Open-cell isn't a good choice against container steel: ArmorThane's data puts it at over 10 perm and up to 30% water absorption. In living space, either foam needs a thermal barrier such as ½ in. drywall.

How do I stop condensation in a shipping container?

Keep indoor air away from the cold steel with closed-cell foam or foam panels with every seam sealed, and insulate the ceiling, not just the walls. Hold indoor humidity around 30–50% (EPA's target for homes), provide mechanical ventilation, and don't run unvented propane heaters: by our math they release about 0.82 gallon of water per gallon burned. Our condensation check shows which surface will sweat in your climate.

Do shipping containers need a vapor barrier?

Not a separate sheet if you use closed-cell foam. One inch of ArmorFoam closed-cell measures 0.83 perm, a Class II vapor retarder (0.1–1.0 perm), and the steel is already a vapor barrier on the outside, so poly sheeting inside would trap the wall. Batts or open-cell need a continuous, airtight interior vapor retarder and are still risky in cold zones.

How much does it cost to insulate a 20-ft or 40-ft shipping container?

The walls, ends and ceiling of a 20-ft container are about 562 sq ft. Two inches of professionally sprayed closed-cell runs about $1,124–$2,383 on flat-area math at 2026 rates, or about $1,545–$3,275 once 1.5 in. corrugations are filled; a 40-ft high cube costs roughly double. HomeGuide puts container-home insulation at $0.80–$4.50 per sq ft by type (Jan. 2026). The estimator runs your container.

Should I insulate the inside or outside of a shipping container?

Inside is cheaper and keeps the container look, but costs width and headroom. Outside keeps the steel warm and every inch of interior, at a higher price and with cladding or a coating to protect it. The roof is the best place for exterior foam: DOE says a conventional roof can pass 150°F on a sunny afternoon and a reflective one can stay more than 50°F cooler.

How do you insulate a shipping container floor?

Either spray closed-cell under the container between the crossmembers before it's set, which costs no headroom, or lay rigid foam and a new subfloor on top, which costs about 2¾ in. for 2 in. of foam. Seal or replace the original plywood first, since used container floors can carry fumigation residues. The IBC also requires the space under a container to be ventilated (Section 3114.5).

Do I need to insulate a shipping container used for storage?

Not always. An unheated box drips mainly because the roof cools below the air's dew point on clear nights and humid air enters when the doors open. An inch of closed-cell on the ceiling, a couple of vents and keeping goods off the steel stop most of it; for hardy goods, vents and a reflective roof coating may be enough.

Can I insulate a shipping container myself?

Yes. Foam panels and rigid boards are the easiest DIY routes if you glue them to the ribs and seal every seam and the bottom row. Two-part kits run $1.22–$1.95 per board foot, and past about 500 sq ft the kit cost approaches a pro's installed price. Follow kit safety to the letter: an organic-vapor respirator with a P100 filter and at least 10 air changes an hour (ICC-ES ESR-3228). See our DIY spray foam insulation guide.

Does spray foam in a shipping container need to be covered?

In occupied space, yes. Foam plastic must be separated from the interior by a thermal barrier of ½ in. gypsum wallboard or a material that passes NFPA 275 (IBC 2603.4; IRC R316.4, renumbered R303.4 in 2024). The rule covers foam boards and panels too, and a Class A flame-spread rating alone isn't a substitute.

How much interior space does container insulation take?

Each inch on the side walls costs two inches of width, and a standard container is 7′ 7¾″ wide inside. Two inches of closed-cell plus drywall leaves about 7′ 2¾″; a 2x4 wall with batts leaves under 7 ft. A high cube is a foot taller inside (8′ 8½″ vs. 7′ 8½″), which is why it's popular for homes.

Will insulation stop my shipping container from rusting?

Interior closed-cell keeps condensation off the inside of the steel, but it does nothing for the outside. Weathering steel's oxide layer isn't a coating, and the FHWA advises against leaving weathering steel uncoated where it stays wet much of the year. Blast, prime and coat rusting exterior steel; our metal coating guide covers the prep.

AT
ArmorThane Technical Team · Springfield, Missouri
Written from manufacturer data sheets, code text and 35+ years of spraying and supporting applicators. Last updated September 26, 2026.

Methodology and sources

Container dimensions are from Wikipedia's intermodal container table; sellers' figures vary slightly. Climate data: NOAA 1991–2020 normals; climate zones from the 2018 IRC county table; energy prices: EIA 2025 residential averages. Code text is from the IBC and IRC as published on UpCodes, with 2021 IECC values via DOE/PNNL. Calculations are ours and steady-state: screening tools, not a substitute for your building official, an engineer or product literature.

  1. Wikipedia, intermodal container (materials and dimensions): en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intermodal_container
  2. Container Technology, container specifications: containertech.com/container-specifications/
  3. Container Technology, insulation and interior finishing: containertech.com/insulation-interior-finishing
  4. InSoFast, CX44 shipping container insulation bundle (2026): insofast.com/products/cx44-shipping-container-insulation
  5. InSoFast, container FAQs: insofast.com/insofast-products-applications/shipping-container-applica
  6. InSoFast, air sealing containers: insofast.com/resources/container-resources/air-sealing-containers
  7. Super Cubes, insulating containers: what are your options: supercubes.com/blog/insulating-containers-what-are-your-options
  8. Discover Containers, methods to insulate a shipping container home: discovercontainers.com/5-methods-to-insulate-your-shipping-container-h
  9. Discover Containers, container condensation prevention: discovercontainers.com/container-condensation-prevention/
  10. Falcon Structures, how to insulate shipping containers (Sept. 2025): falconstructures.com/blog/how-to-insulate-shipping-containers
  11. HomeGuide, shipping container home cost (Jan. 2026): homeguide.com/costs/shipping-container-home-cost
  12. HomeGuide, pole barn and metal building insulation cost (Nov. 2025): homeguide.com/costs/spray-foam-insulation-cost-pole-barn
  13. IBC 202, intermodal shipping container definition (UpCodes): up.codes/s/intermodal-shipping-container
  14. IBC Section 3114, intermodal shipping containers (UpCodes, 2025 California Building Code): up.codes/s/intermodal-shipping-containers
  15. IBC 2603.4, thermal barrier (UpCodes): up.codes/s/thermal-barrier
  16. IBC/IRC 202, vapor retarder class (UpCodes): up.codes/s/vapor-retarder-class
  17. IBC 202, continuous insulation (UpCodes): up.codes/s/continuous-insulation-ci
  18. IECC R402.2.2 / IRC N1102.2.2, ceilings without attics (UpCodes): up.codes/s/ceilings-without-attics
  19. 2018 IECC R402.1.4, U-factor alternative (UpCodes): up.codes/s/u-factor-alternative
  20. 2024 IRC M1505.4, whole-house mechanical ventilation (UpCodes): up.codes/s/whole-house-mechanical-ventilation-system
  21. DOE/PNNL Building America Solution Center, 2009–2021 IECC insulation requirements: basc.pnnl.gov/information/2009-2021-iecc-and-irc-minimum-insulation-re
  22. ICC-ES ESR-3228, Froth-Pak spray foam (PDF): icc-es.org/wp-content/uploads/report-directory/ESR-3228.pdf
  23. DuPont Froth-Pak, how to air seal rim joists (kit temperatures): frothpak.dupont.com/how-to/air-seal-rim-joists.html
  24. OSHA, isocyanates: osha.gov/isocyanates
  25. U.S. EPA, a brief guide to mold, moisture and your home: epa.gov/mold/brief-guide-mold-moisture-and-your-home
  26. U.S. DOE Energy Saver, cool roofs: energy.gov/energysaver/cool-roofs
  27. U.S. DOE Energy Saver, radiant barriers: energy.gov/energysaver/radiant-barriers
  28. FHWA Technical Advisory T 5140.22, uncoated weathering steel (1989): fhwa.dot.gov/bridge/t514022.cfm
  29. Colorado Energy, R-value table (air films, boards, plywood): coloradoenergy.org/procorner/stuff/r-values.htm
  30. GreenBuildingAdvisor, insulating rim joists (XPS and EPS perm ratings): greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/insulating-rim-joists
  31. DuPont Thermax Heavy Duty (foil facer): dupont.com/products/thermax-heavy-duty.html
  32. Dew point and the Magnus formula: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dew_point
  33. Radiative cooling: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiative_cooling
  34. Propane (density and combustion): en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propane
  35. NOAA NCEI, U.S. climate normals 1991–2020: ncei.noaa.gov/products/land-based-station/us-climate-normals
  36. U.S. EIA, natural gas prices: eia.gov/dnav/ng/ng_pri_sum_dcu_nus_a.htm
  37. U.S. EIA, Electric Power Monthly table 5.3: eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.php?t=epmt_5_3
  38. ArmorThane, closed-cell spray foam guide: armorthane.com/closed-cell-spray-foam/
  39. ArmorThane, spray foam insulation cost: armorthane.com/spray-foam-insulation-cost/
  40. ArmorThane, spray foam R-value guide: armorthane.com/knowledge-center/spray-foam-r-value-guide/
  41. ArmorThane, ArmorFoam 0.5 open-cell spray foam: armorthane.com/products/armorfoam-products/open-cell-spray-foam/
  42. ArmorThane, ArmorFoam Roof 200: armorthane.com/products/armorfoam-products/roof-200/
  43. ArmorThane, metal coating guide: armorthane.com/knowledge-center/metal-coating-guide/

latest news & bLOGS

Learn more

Keep the water off the steel, and keep the room.

ArmorThane-certified applicators spray ArmorFoam closed-cell into every corrugation at a stated thickness and R-value, and can do floors, roof foam and polyurea coatings from the same rig. Contractors: we make the foam, build the rigs and train your crew, with no franchise fee.

Find a container insulation applicator →Become a spray foam applicator
United States 417-831-5090 · Canada 780-444-6200

CONTACT US

REQUEST A QUOTE OR

BECOME AN APPLICATOR

ArmorThane has built a strong reputation over the past 30 years for producing high-quality, durable protective coatings.

group 115 660555abebfe4
Phone Number

Tel: 417.831.5090

group 115 1 660556c21395c
Email Us

moreinfo@armorthane.com

Step 1 of 3

We want to help you find the best ArmorThane applicator for your protective coating project. Please either fill out the request form below or call us toll free at 417-831-5090, any time Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Standard Time.

RV Find An Applicator

Step 1 of 3

Connect with an authorized ArmorThane professional to get a long-lasting, seamless protective coating for your RV. Submit the form below or call us directly at 417-831-5090 (Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM CST).

Facebook Twitter Youtube

Find An Applicator

Applicator Login

Armorthane Logo Outlined
CALL NOW
BECOME APPLICATOR
FIND APPLICATOR

Protective Coating Applications

Products

Applicator Opportunities

Knowledge Center

Galleries