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Tell us what needs protecting and what it is exposed to. We will connect you with a certified applicator who can inspect and quote the job.
Corrosion protection is not a product, it is a system: the right surface preparation, the right coating chemistry for the exposure, enough film thickness, and proof that the film is continuous. Most coatings that fail on steel or concrete fail because one of those four was skipped, not because the coating was bad. We manufacture polyurea, polyurethane and hybrid coatings and the plural-component equipment that sprays them, so this guide covers what we see work in tanks, structural steel, pipe, trailers, wastewater and marine service, and where polyurea is and is not the right answer.
The best corrosion protection coating depends on the exposure. For atmospheric steel, a zinc-rich primer with an epoxy intermediate and a UV-stable polyurethane or polyaspartic topcoat is the proven system. For immersion, abrasion, impact or chemical splash, a thick, 100%-solids polyurea or polyurea hybrid applied over properly blasted and primed steel (often 40 mils or more) gives a seamless barrier that also resists cracking and chipping. In every case, near-white blast cleaning, the right profile and dew-point control matter as much as the coating.
Corrosion of steel is an electrochemical reaction. It needs four things at once: an anode where iron gives up electrons, a cathode, an electrolyte (water, condensation, salt fog, wet soil) and a metallic path connecting them. Take away any one and the reaction stops. Every corrosion protection strategy attacks one of those four.
Concrete corrodes differently. The concrete itself is attacked by acids (hydrogen sulfide converting to sulfuric acid in sewers and lift stations is the classic case), and the steel rebar inside corrodes once chlorides or carbonation break down the alkaline layer that normally protects it. Rust takes up several times the volume of the steel it came from, so corroding rebar cracks and spalls the concrete from the inside.
Thick, low-permeability films such as polyurea, epoxy and coal-tar replacements stop water, oxygen and ions from reaching the steel. Film continuity is everything: one pinhole becomes the anode.
Primers with inhibitive pigments slow the reaction where moisture does get through. Common in shop-applied primers and maintenance coatings.
Zinc-rich primers and hot-dip galvanizing corrode in place of the steel. Cathodic protection does the same job electrically for buried and immersed structures.
ISO 12944-2 sorts atmospheric exposures into categories by how fast unprotected steel corrodes, and adds immersion and buried categories. Specifying by category keeps everyone honest about what the coating is up against.
No single coating is best everywhere. The table compares the systems you will see on real bids.
Spray polyurea is a 100%-solids, plural-component elastomer that gels in seconds. That lets an applicator build a seamless, thick film in one visit, including vertical and overhead surfaces, with no solvent to trap and essentially no VOCs. Because it is flexible and tough, it does not crack when steel flexes or when the concrete underneath moves, which is where rigid coatings often let corrosion in.
Seamless linings for water, wastewater, process and fuel service, applied over near-white blast and the specified primer. See tank lining.
Bund walls, dikes and sumps where chemical splash, UV and foot traffic all apply. See secondary containment coatings.
Wet wells, lift stations and manholes where concrete is losing to acid attack. See wastewater coatings.
Abrasion and impact keep chipping thin paint systems; thick polyurea stops the chip that starts the rust.
Most polyureas are rated for continuous service well below 200°F. Check the data sheet before lining hot process tanks.
Where impact and abrasion are low and only color and UV matter, a conventional epoxy plus polyurethane system costs less.
Coating manufacturers will tell you surface preparation is responsible for most coating failures, and our field experience agrees. On steel, the cleaning standard and the anchor profile are specified together. On concrete, the target is sound, clean, dry concrete with an open texture. Full detail is in our surface preparation guide.
Solvent-clean oil, grease and cutting fluids before blasting so the blast does not drive them into the profile.
Blast to the specified cleanliness, usually near-white for immersion, and check the anchor profile with replica tape or a depth gauge.
Test for soluble salts where chlorides are likely, and keep the steel at least 5°F above the dew point.
Coat blasted steel before flash rust forms, typically the same day.
Brush edges, welds and fasteners before the full coat.
Measure dry film thickness, run holiday testing on linings, and pull-off test adhesion on a test area.
A coating that looks good can still have holidays (pinholes), thin spots or poor adhesion. On any lining or immersion job, ask for these checks in the contract and in the closeout package.
Measured with a magnetic gauge on steel to SSPC-PA 2 sampling, or by wet film checks and calculation on concrete.
Low-voltage wet sponge or high-voltage spark testing finds pinholes in linings. ASTM D5162 covers steel; ASTM D4787 covers concrete.
ASTM D4541 dollies measure bond strength and show whether a failure is in the coating, the primer or the substrate.
Installed cost is driven far more by access, surface prep and downtime than by the coating itself. Blasting, containment of blast media, scaffolding and confined-space entry can be most of the bill. A thicker, more durable system often costs less over the life of the asset because it pushes out the next shutdown.
A certified ArmorThane applicator can inspect your tank, steel or concrete, recommend a system for the exposure, and spray it with testing documented.
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It depends on exposure. For atmospheric steel, zinc-rich primer, epoxy and a polyurethane or polyaspartic topcoat is the proven system. For immersion, abrasion, impact or chemical splash, a thick 100%-solids polyurea or polyurea hybrid over near-white blasted, primed steel is often the longer-lasting choice.
Yes, when it is applied over proper surface preparation and the specified primer. Polyurea forms a thick, seamless, flexible barrier that resists impact and abrasion. Aromatic polyurea darkens in sunlight, so exposed outdoor work usually gets an aliphatic topcoat.
ISO 12944 classifies durability to first major maintenance as up to 7 years (low), 7 to 15 (medium), 15 to 25 (high) and more than 25 years (very high). Actual life depends on the exposure category, prep quality and film thickness.
Only for low-stakes maintenance. Rust-tolerant primers exist, but for immersion, linings or anything you expect to last, rust and mill scale must be removed by abrasive blasting to the specified standard, usually near-white metal.
For immersion and corrosive service, yes. Use the primer listed on the polyurea product data sheet; it improves adhesion and helps protect the steel if the coating is ever damaged.
The terms are used loosely. A corrosion-resistant coating resists attack itself; a corrosion protective coating protects the substrate underneath. Good anti-corrosion systems do both: the film resists the environment and keeps the electrolyte off the steel or concrete.
Owners get a certified ArmorThane applicator for tanks, structural steel, containment and wastewater. Contractors can add corrosion protection services with no franchise fee and no royalties.
ArmorThane has built a strong reputation over the past 30 years for producing high-quality, durable protective coatings.
Tel: 417.831.5090
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We want to help you find the best ArmorThane applicator for your protective coating project. Please either fill out the request form below or call us toll free at 417-831-5090, any time Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Standard Time.
Connect with an authorized ArmorThane professional to get a long-lasting, seamless protective coating for your RV. Submit the form below or call us directly at 417-831-5090 (Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM CST).